Salt & Vinegar, Together Forever

It was nearly a century of traditional British fish & chip shops serving fries with malt vinegar, before the crisp industry was convinced in the mid-1900s to give salt & vinegar a try. I, for one, can’t imagine a snacking world without this long-lasting combination.

I asked food scientist Arielle Johnson, whose just-released book Flavorama, explores how ingredients interact on a molecular level. “Basically, vinegar is an interesting acid because it has an aroma (vinegary) as well as a taste (sour),” Johnson wrote to me. “There’s even a trigeminal, touch-related flavor (the pungency/burn),” which is an atypical trio of interactivity. Whereas salt increases the volatility of smell molecules, Johnson also adds that, “saltiness and sourness tend to perceptually enhance each other’s intensity at low concentrations, and suppress each other’s intensity at high concentrations — so depending on how sour a chip is, adding a lot of salt can make it taste more manageable.” Which is to say, salt needs vinegar and vinegar needs salt.

With the following questions posed to colleagues and friends: “what’s your favorite salt and vinegar chip and why is it the best?, “I was surprised how opinionated and varied the responses were — and how many people pegged certain brands to times and places.

Here’s what they had to say, do you agree? Chime in with comments!

Kettle Sea Salt and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

“I’ve tried every one I can find here, and while the French brands do other chips very well, all the salt and vinegar are under seasoned to my palate. That said, I prefer a sharp and strongly-vinegared (and salted!) chip — to the point where it feels like it’s nearly cutting up your tongue. Kettle Sea Salt and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena are our standard. They pair the best with whatever you’re drinking for apéro. We bring an extra duffle with us when we go to London, specifically to bring back crisps — and friends and family all know what to bring us from the US as a present. This is clearly a topic of conversation in our house! I actually have an homage to salt & vin chips in [my forthcoming cookbook] le SUD!” — Rebekah Peppler, Paris-based writer, stylist, cookbook author

Siete Sea Salt &Vinegar with a Hint of Serrano

“These are *it*. They remind me of Cape Cod brand potato chips—extra crunchy and a lot of them have that amazing curled up shape so you get a layered bite. The slight hint of chile is such a great addition to the S&V. They’re also in avocado oil. Highly recommend trying .” — Stacy Adimando Graf, a cook who writes, gardens, designs, and builds. Once: editor in in chief of SAVEUR Mag, JBF award winner

Tim’s Cascade Sea Salt & Vinegar

“Tim’s Cascade! My hometown chips. I haven’t seen them in Japan, [where I live], so I bring them! I grew up in a small town near Seattle. Tim’s were THE Chips before Kettle chips became widely popular. They actually taste like potatoes. I don’t use them in recipes, but I will for sure slip a few into whatever sandwich I’m eating them with, especially tuna. They are a good substitute for pickles when a sandwich is missing something sour, like a kind of lame takeout sandwich. I also really like to eat them on the plane. I almost always pack dark chocolate and salt and vinegar chips when I fly . I don’t eat the chocolate and chips together, to be clear. I just like those strong flavors to break up the boredom of a long flight.” — Hannah Kirshner, author of Water, Wood & Wild Things; currently renovating two old houses in Japan, @mokkei_yamanaka.

Co-op Supermarket Sea Salt & Chardonnay Wine Vinegar Crisps

“ I’ll have to just bring you a bag next time I go to the UK,” Claire said. “It’s a combo of the crunchy kettle-cooked chip that still maintains a light thinness. My friends there dip them in hummus. I found it a pretty good combo since the hummus is so creamy but the chip brings that boost of salty acidity.” — Claire Matern, founder & CEO, Joni

Tesco Salt & Vinegar / Aldi Specialty Selected

“Tesco ones burn your mouth off with their vinegary intensity. The Aldi ones, called Specially Selected which is their brand across the board for slightly nicer things in the shop, literally leave no skin on your mouth.” — Karen Brown, musician, Iona Scottish Session

Hal’s Sea Salt & Vinegar / Tyrell’s Sea Salt & Cider Vinegar

“In the NYC area: Hal’s is the gold standard. The perfect amount of flavoring. Globally: Tyrell’s. The BEST! Buy whenever you see!” — Kendra Borowski, restaurant & food publicist, Kendra PR

Walkers Salt & Vinegar Crisps

“Walkers when I can get them—because Brits do it better. Lay’s when I can’t because they’re the closest to Walkers.” — Gabi Porter, photographer, NYC

Walkers Sensations Balsamic Vinegar & Caramelised Onion

“These make the best English-style crisp sandwich ever. Use inexpensive sliced white bread, spread two slices with creamy unsalted Italian butter (a stylistic nod to the Balsamic) and scatter one with crisps. Place the other slice on top and lightly compress them both together.” — Nicola Miller, writer, Fortnum & Mason Cookery Writer of the Year 2022

Tayto Salt & Vinegar

“No, no, no: the Irish do it better! TAYTO! Because I live in Ireland! And because Tayto really is the best!” — Rosie Schaap, writer, teacher. Mariner Books: The Slow Road North

Kettle, Dirty Chips, Synder of Hanover, Utz …

“Kettle for ease of finding them, though their consistency isn’t solid. Too many bags with minimal vinegar flavor. Boulder Malt Vinegar & Sea Salt is great too and local. I like Dirty Salt & Vinegar chips but don’t see them here in Colorado. Snyder of Hanover is the best you can get in Ohio/PA. In NYC I’d say Utz Salt & Malt Vinegar. I’m always looking for a strong vinegar flavor. I won’t buy Lays or Herr’s because they’re weak in flavor and kind of thin. It’s strange how often I see empty shelves where the S&V chips are supposed to be. They’re consistently out of stock compared to other flavors.” — Mike Pattison, lead digital strategist at Klaviyo

Cape Cod Sea Salt & Vinegar

“Cape Cod chips reign supreme in all flavors for their thickness, crunch and flavor.”— Brett Posmentier, chef entrepreneur, co-founder Ask A Chef Podcast

My Dad’s Chips Salt & Balsamic Vinegar

“There is a new brand local to the DMV called My Dad’s Chips. Super vinegary, tastes like potatoes and is delicious.” — Laura Calderone, founder of Relish Catering LLC

Fox Family Salt & Vinegar

“Fox Family, super crunch and perfect pucker” — Jessica Nadeau, Maine, beachcomber, artist, mother, teacher, maker of hearts. ❤️ The Heart Project

Kettle Sea Salt & Vinegar

“Kettle brand inside a ham, honey, and basil sandwich.” — Rachael Torchia, middle school head at Northwest Academy in Portland, Oregon